The Smoke that Thunders - Gert Scholtz - South Africa

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago · 3 min. reading time · ~100 ·

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The Smoke that Thunders

There is one place in Africa I would visit again and again. The Victoria Falls. More than once I have been there and on each visit I experience the scenery and adventure of the environment anew.

The Falls

Thick mist greets me first, providing a prelude to the raw power of this sheet of water. The sound can be heard several kilometers away. Rainbows, bright and complete, arch their wings overhead. British explorer David Livingstone first introduced the falls to the Western world in 1855: “Scenes so lovely must be gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

As I stand on the precipice the waters roar over the edge to far below and swirl up again in a white mist. Here, close to the edge the water spray leaves me soaking wet while I revere the view. The local Sotho nation calls it Mosi-oa-Tunya which means “The Smoke that Thunders”. The cascade leaves a cloud of mist visible from 50 km (30 miles) away.

The Victoria Falls do not tumble down from mountains or cliffs, but from the edge of a deep chasm in the ground. The Zambesi River flows and then plummets into a deep gorge from where the waters continue to mould the earth in six more gorges far below. Its power and majestic beauty make it one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

As the water tumbles over the wide lip of the chasm in the ground it transforms a placid upstream flow to a ferocious torrent cutting through dramatic gorges. The Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall based on its combined width of 1708 meters (5604ft) and height of 108 meters (354ft).

Devil's Pool

Devil's Pool is right near the edge of the falls. A rock barrier forms an eddy with minimal current, allowing adventurous swimmers to splash around few feet from the point where the water torrents over the lip. A leap into the pool and you get pushed to the edge by the force of the river. The rock lip brings you to a halt as the rushing waters of the Zambezi river crash over the cliffs a few feet away. Peer over the drop and the stomach lurches at the might and height.

Microlighting

Close by the falls is a small landing strip where a few light aircraft stand. The microlights lure me closer. I relish heights and views and take a trip as a passenger. In the air, the wind gusts pluck the dingy aircraft from side to side. I see the falls beneath my feet and stretching to all sides. I feel the cool spray of the mist. Fear and exhilaration are close friends alternating with each sway, swirl and shift in the seat. Later, the rickety aircraft lands. My mind is still in the air.

River Rafting

Below the falls as the river winds through the gorges I climb in a boat with seven others. We heave into the waters and the rubber duck lurches in the enormous waves, slow treacherous vortexes and heavy boiling turbulence. Two go overboard and when they surface they refuse to ride on. I plunge into the water twice and experience extreme fear and disorientation in the dark churning waters. Submerged I cannot sense at all which way is up. I can only wait until buoyancy pushes me back to the surface. A heady elixir of terror in water and rushes of acceleration in the boat.

Golf

There are gentler pursuits, although it can also be said to be on the wild side. As I play the golf course in front of the iconic Elephant Hills hotel, antelope, giraffe and elephant cross the fairways. The walk around the course is a stroll through a wildlife park. A slow round, made surreal by the wild on the greens and fairways.

Crafts

There is the local craft market with stone artifacts, wooden carvings and woven handbags. The market and the surrounding tourist industry provide a livelihood for many families in the area. Here I walk and look at the artistic talent tucked away. I stop and buy a few souvenirs to take home, handed to me with the generous smiles of Africa.

Time to go

Here is still much to experience and see. All pervasively is the cloud of mist, the roar of water and the hypnotic grandeur of the Victoria Falls. As the airplane ascends I look out the window and see clearly the smoke that thunders.

Until next time.

(Photos: Random Sources. Experiences: Real and my own).

""""""""""""""""""

#Devil #Pool #Victoria Falls #Africa #Thunders

Comments

Jerry Fletcher

7 years ago #40

Gert, Every time you post you add to the places I've got to see on this incredible globe we inhabit. I don't think I've ever played a golf course with those kinds of hazards but it looks like fun. Same for the ultralight flight. I'm passing this along to friends who have rafted on the Indus They will appreciate that photo of the raft dancing on it's tail feathers.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #39

Don \ud83d\udc1d Kerr Thanks Don, I would very much like to play a round of golf with you on this course! The river rafting was to me the most intimidating activity – underwater not knowing how long and which way is up; a huge fright. The microlight looks seductively easy but it did not help at all that my seat on the aircraft was slightly loose! As I mention; exhilaration and fear are close friends in these adventures.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #38

Pamela \ud83d\udc1d Williams Thanks Pam and Fatima for joining and enjoying the adventure trip. It really is spectacular to see the Victoria falls and partake in all the activities. I hope to go again in the not too distant future.

Lisa Gallagher

7 years ago #37

#48
LOL, I remember it being a slow, bumpy, ride. Don \ud83d\udc1d Kerr in total agreement with you about the people in the pool, I couldn't either!

don kerr

7 years ago #36

Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz Almost messed my trousers looking at the folks in the pool. N.E.V.E.R. could I be cajoled into taking that plunge. However, the Falls do look absolutely spectacular, the rafting looks energizing and the golf brilliant. Thanks for sharing.

🐝 Fatima G. Williams

7 years ago #35

This is absolutely spectacular Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz It's feels a bit overboard but I wouldn't mind getting on that boat now that I don't drown 😆. The river rafting sounds crazy a must try. Thank you for sharing this amazing experience with us. A trip of a lifetime I must say.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #34

#46
Claire L \ud83d\udc1d Cardwell The Victoria Falls is an absolute must see! When you have the opportunity, do go. Thanks Claire for your friendly words and for sharing - much appreciated.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #33

#45
Savvy Raj Very nice of you to read and comment Savvy - thank you! I especially appreciate " a scenic visual with your fascinating play of words".

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #32

#44
Lisa \ud83d\udc1d Gallagher Riding an elephant absolutely counts! As long as whatever you ride has legs and not wheels, a "wild ride" it is.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #31

#36
Laura Mikolaitis Thank you for your kind words Laura. Places like these does leave me in absolute awe of the predominance of nature. And what an adventure!

Lisa Gallagher

7 years ago #30

#21
I rode an elephant when I was young, does that count? ;-)

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #29

#36
Laura Mikolaitis So glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for reading Laura - I am in awe at these falls of nature's predominance.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #28

#33
Donna-Luisa Eversley The dam of water did feel good - to paraphrase :). A travel joy experienced and transferred is my added pleasure to the post. Thank you Donna-Luisa.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #27

Praveen Raj Gullepalli Perhaps this an idea - a poem about a bucket list (to use the vernacular phrase). Many thanks Praveen, Yogesh and Debasish for the comments, poem and shared experience.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #26

#9
Lisa \ud83d\udc1d Gallagher It looks like I am a bit of an adrenaline junkie after all. Now what is my next kick - with a barrel over the falls? Nope. Rather leave that one to those who did it at the Niagara falls. Thanks David and Lisa for joining the thread and enjoying the trip with me.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #25

#27
Netta Virtanen You said it so well Netta: "A great adventure with so much beauty." Thank you for your generous comments - much appreciated.

Bill Stankiewicz

7 years ago #24

Great 👍

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #23

#32
My Dear Livingstone, your messenger arrived today, having taken a short cut (and hence saving several months) by sailing down the Nile in a following wind, assisted by the presence of several very large crocodiles nipping at his rudder. He then risked life and limb on shore, travelling on one of those modern land yacht contraptions, aided by a prolonged three day sand storm. The poor fellow arrived looking extremely haggard but is recovering well, and was last seen being fed dates by a passing group of belly dancers. Tempting though your sincere invitation may be, to journey to shady and cooler climes and partake in an abundant of fresh water, particularly as I am currently camped between oases, I am temporarily without means of transportation, since we are becalmed, my camel somewhat has the hump with me, and I am the guest speaker at a succession of local bedouin feasts. I swear that if I see another sheep's eye winking at me from a bowl of desert stew, I shall not be responsible for my actions. I trust that the old lion wound in your arm is no longer troubling you and hope that our paths will cross soon. I remain, sir, your most obedient servant. TE Lawrence.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #22

Ken Boddie Dear Sir Lawrence of Arabia. If you were to mount your camel and travel 7500 kilometers south, you will find the coolest of mists, the shadiest trees and the most water you have ever seen. You can also live on the edge, but I guess that is what you are already doing in the sands and dunes. I am sending you this letter by foot messenger. I hope it reaches you before your kinsmen start moving to the far away continent in the south eastern seas. Yours most sincerely. Sir David Livingstone.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #21

Thank you Emilia – so nice to hear you have visited the falls and your recollections are similar to mine. Is it not a good thing to do crazy things sometimes? Yes of course it is!

Pascal Derrien

7 years ago #20

I stupidly missed th eopportunbity to get there when I was in the region..... my loss :-)

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #19

Ian Weinberg Thank you to my fellow South Africans. We are privileged to live in what I think must be one of the most beautiful spots in the world. / Dankie aan my mede Suid Afrikaners. Ons is bevoorreg om in sekerlik een van die pragtigste streke in die wereld te woon.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #18

Ian Weinberg Thank you to my fellow South Africans. We do have our strains and concerns about the region but we are privileged to live in what I think must be one of the most beautiful spots in the world. Wat n pragtige land!

Sara Jacobovici

7 years ago #17

Wonderful visceral experience "reading" your buzz Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz. Thank you for sharing!

Paul Walters

7 years ago #16

#6
Dean Owen One can try but not recommended !!!!

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #15

Javier \ud83d\udc1d beBee Thank you - I appreciate your comments very much! I hope to take you to this place someday. When you see it and experience it, you will know why it is one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #14

Aleta Curry Waterfalls are such places of natural beauty – I share your fondness. I have seen the Niagara Falls too; big and rushing waters. The wild and untamed falls in Africa are different and a must for your bucket list. Thanks for commenting Aleta!

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #13

Dean Owen I have never seen or heard of anyone riding a giraffe. They are essentially wild and skittish and difficult to get close to. What may surprise you is that I have ridden an Ostrich. Quite a bumpy ride and surprisingly fast. (No animals or Bees were hurt in the process) Thanks for stopping by Dean.

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #12

#5
Paul Walters It might be only you and I on beBee who have had the privilege of visiting the falls. Thank you for the encouraging comment Paul – especially so because it is from an eminent travel writer!

Gert Scholtz

7 years ago #11

Franci\ud83d\udc1dEugenia Hoffman Thank you for sharing the post and enjoying this part of the world with me. Certainly on a bucket list Devesh – just don’t put the list in a bucket :) . Dear Ali – through your posts I learn to look anew at the natural world around me. Franci – good to see you “enjoy a fall”.

Ken Boddie

7 years ago #10

Livingston, I presume? 😄 But I think I'd miss out on the microlight. Been too many accidents here in Oz due to poor maintenance. Love the idea of testing vertigo from a pool. Talk about living 'close to the edge'! You're a more intrepid explorer than me, Gert, although I'm always up for a game of giraffe croquet. 🤣

Javier Cámara-Rica 🐝🇪🇸

7 years ago #9

Wow ! Stunning ! Thanks Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz

Lisa Gallagher

7 years ago #8

Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz would be two people who would love to go rafting in that gorge, I think they are adrenaline junkies too :-) Oh and the elephants, giraffes and antelopes on the golf course Wow, you don't see that every day, cool!

David B. Grinberg

7 years ago #7

Thanks for this buzz, Gert. The beauty and wonder of nature never cease to amaze. Just don't go over the Falls in barrel (lol). Very nice!

Ian Weinberg

7 years ago #6

Excellent description of another unique spot on the planet Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz

Dean Owen

7 years ago #5

Can we not have giraffes everywhere? Odd question Gert-sensei, but can one ride a giraffe?

Paul Walters

7 years ago #4

Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz Yup we have been blessed having seen and experienced it. I love going there and I do have to say its the Victoria falls Hotel that always lures back. Thanks great post

Devesh 🐝 Bhatt

7 years ago #3

Bucket list bucket list. Thanks

Ali Anani

7 years ago #2

I enjoyed reading your buzz immensely as much as I enjoyed the images and so shared the buzz Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz

Julio Angel 🐝Lopez Lopez

7 years ago #1

Spectacular Gert \ud83d\udc1d Scholtz

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