So Much To Do, So Little Time. 48 Hours In Istanbul.

I often receive some rather, " we need it now!" requests from magazines and this piece, written for the July edition of Turkish Airlines was one of those. Its primarily a, 'what to do'  article but might be helpful for any bees buzzing through this glorious city.  

Welcome to Istanbul, this most  ancient of cities  straddling the mighty Bosphorus,with one foot in Europe and the other planted firmly in Asia, connecting yet almost intent on slicing the continents in two.

Now, given that you have just 48 hours to absorb everything that this booming metropolis has to offer, you should plan your stay carefully. Remember that you do have to sleep and, if you are anything like me, eight hours a night is mandatory so you will have just thirty two hours explore.

Right now is a perfect time to visit istanbul as, with the downturn in tourism it is, a) far less crowded b) hoteliers have drastically reduced their prices, sometimes by up to half! c) A dramatic fall in the value of the Turkish lira means your pounds, dollars or Euros go a lot further.

It’s probably best to stay in the old city, meaning you are close to virtually everything you want to see. On arrival, orient yourself by having a drink at one of the numerous rooftop bars in the area. Virtually all offer stupendous views over the Sea of Marmara on one side and the breathtaking vistas of the old city on the other, including the Hagia Sophia and the majestic Blue Mosque. One of the best bars with its stunning location is the Arcadia Blue Hotel.

DAY ONE.

Right, now that you are up, it’s time to go down by visiting the awe inspiring Basilica Cistern. Built primarily as a water storage system, this subterranean structure is a classic example of ancient architecture at its very best, epitomised by the giant 336 columns supporting the huge domed ceiling. It lies directly beneath the Hagia Sofia and Sultanahmet square and offers the first time visitor a rather surreal underground experience.

Across from the entrance to the cistern is perhaps one of the greatest buildings in the world that is still standing after 1000 years, the Hagia Sophia. Originally commissioned by King Constantine a millennium ago, this mighty structure has been over the centuries, a church, a mosque and today is one of the greatest museums of all time. The centrepiece is the 55m-high domed ceiling covered in exquisite murals and intricate mosaics of Christ, the Virgin Mary and a few Byzantine emperors. This is one site in the city not to be missed.

Virtually right next door to the Hagia Sophia is the massive Sultan Ahmet (Blue) Mosque, a working mosque. It is open to tourists but please, remember to leave your shoes at the door and for women it is customary for a head scarf to be worn. Just to see the gigantic carpet covering the immense floor space is well worth the visit.

By now it will be lunchtime and what better way to satisfy your hunger than indulging in the grilled meatballs dished up with a white-bean salad and spicy tomato sauce at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi just a stroll away on Divan Yolu. You know it’s good as locals outnumber tourists two to one!

Huger satisfied, try to avoid the temptation to head back to your hotel for a nap and head directly to the Topkapı Palace complex which will swallow up the rest of your afternoon. This grand palace was once the beating heart of Ottoman empire. Grandiose in its construction it sits right on the end of the peninsula looking back on the old city. The complex is made up of several museums, full of ancient and stunning treasures such as the jewel encrusted Topkapı Dagger, paintings galore and even and a hair from the head of the Prophet Mohammed,! It's a lot to take in but reward yourself with a coffee at the café which offers breathtaking views across the Bosphorus.

By now it's almost time to head to your hotel to freshen up so as to prepare yourself for what Istanbul has on offer once the sun goes down ( Oh, did I mention that the sunsets over the city are absolutely sublime ?)

The visitor is spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants and funky bars so here are two that are highly recommended.

Tucked away up a cobbled side street, just off Sultanahmet’s main square Divan Yolu, is Khorasani a rather intimate establishment whose speciality is that perennial favourite of Turks, the kebab. This delicacy is prepared on the numerous charcoal grills and ovens and presented with a flourish, accompanied by great ovals of the thin, unleavened bread, lavas.

If you are feeling a little more adventurous, head across the Golden Horn to the bohemian and hedonistic area of Beyoglu to Gurme Boncuk restaurant a lively, traditional Armenian-Turkish meyhane (tavern) where you can enjoy an all-inclusive feast of fine Turkish cuisine.

Day Two

No visit to Istanbul is complete without a visit to The Grand Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest bazaars in the world. Constructed between 1455 and 1460, it operates today as it has for over 500 years. It is easy to get immersed in this Aladdin’s cave, filled as it is with all manner of exotic items for sale.

 Leatherware, gold and silver jewellry carpets and silks beckon from each stall where merchants will haggle with you over cups strong Turkish coffee. Best to go early as it is one of the most visited tourist attractions on the planet where over 100 million visitors strolled its winding lanes in 2014! It is a short stroll from Sultanahmet but there’s also the option of taking a tram.

While you are there it would be a good idea to take a short detour to the Spice Market one of the largest bazaars in the city, packed full of every exotic spice and aromatic herb imaginable.

Times almost up so you will have to make a difficult choice on your last afternoon in this magical city.

To get a full image of the city, why not take a Bosphorus Cruise. Hop aboard and pass under the numerous awe inspiring bridges while cruising by exotic castles and forts. During the trip the boat zig zags between Asia and Europe and that alone is worth the price of a ticket!

If the nautical theme is'nt for you, wander down to Taksim Square and soak up the city’s most important gathering place. The street food supplied by the numerous vendors is cheap and delicious or if that's not for you sit yourself down at one of one of the many restaurants to devour some more local Turkish cuisine. Don't forget to sample the world famous Turkish Delight.

Where to Stay;

AJai.

Situated on the Asian side of the city and a 35-minute boat ride from the old town, this restored 19th century seaside mansion has 16 rooms all kitted out with Philippe Starck interiors. Several rooms have balconies overlooking the Bosporus.

Ayasofya Pansiyonlari.

This charming hotel is made up of nine wooden houses, all covered in thick vines and copies of old Ottoman houses. It has it’s own restaurant, Sarnic, situated in a subterranean Roman cistern and the only light that comes is from hundreds of candles.

Even though 48 ( or should I say 32) hours is a short stint in this, one of the more exotic capitals on earth,  hopefully, it will certainly be enough to have you planning for a much longer stay!

Paul v Walters is the best selling author of several novels. When not travelling or cocooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali, he scribbles for several international travel and vox pop journals. his latest offering, Asset, is due out in december 2017. ( Thats if the sloth does'nt get him first!)